Winter Salad Series: Leeks Vinaigrette

They're only onions, but leeks seem exotic and therefore special.

photo by M00k.

All of my lettuce is gone now. I miss those greens to my core. But it's time to become inventive on the salad front.

No more easy tossed mesclun mixes--at least those that don't come in a recycled plastic clam shell.

For seasonal eaters, this is a huge adjustment period, and I'm in the first stages of withdrawal.

A bevy of leeks cheered me considerably. Long and lithe, leeks are something to behold (once washed of the prodigious quantities of dirt they acquire between their sheaths while growing).

In most cooking uses, leeks fade in color and loose their length when chopped for a soup or a tart. Left whole and braised just until they're fork tender, however, these gentle onions get to show off their legginess and full integrity. Once I bathe them in a thick mustard vinaigrette, they satisfy a late-fall, early snowfall need for something green.

Leeks Vinaigrette
This is a braising method for preparing about 8 medium leeks for a salad:
1. Trim the leeks to the length you want with as much or as little green as you like. Slice them in half lengthwise to within 1 inch of the root end, wash thoroughly between the layers and dry them well.
2. Melt 2 tablespoons or so of butter in a large sauté or roasting pan over medium-high heat. Add the leeks and cook to brown them lightly, turning 2-3 times, about 7 minutes.
3. Add ¼ cup white wine or vermouth and salt and simmer until the wine is nearly evaporated.
4. Preheat the oven to 425 F degrees.
5. Add 1 cup of stock (I used vegetable stock, but bean water, pasta water or chicken stock are good, too), bring to a boil.
6. Braise the leeks in the oven until they are fork tender, about 25 minutes.
7. Meanwhile, make your favorite Dijon vinaigrette. I whisked up a combination of coarse mustard and Dijon mustard, red wine vinegar, olive oil and salt and pepper to taste. Serve the leeks warm or at room temperature with the vinaigrette and chopped parsley. If you like, top them with chopped hard-boiled egg.

--Adapted from Bon Appetit