Recipe: Savory Pumpkin Soup

If you live in a temperate climate where bay trees thrive, use them here to impart their nutmegy flavors into the soup. If not, sigh with me for our communal misfortune, and use dried bay as usual.
Serves 6

3 tablespoons unsalted or salted butter
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 large onion, chopped
3 cups vegetable or chicken stock
3-4 cups pumpkin or winter squash puree*
Sea salt
6 bay leaves
1 parmesan rind of any size
1/2 cup whole milk, half and half or heavy cream

1. Melt the butter and heat the oil in a medium stock pot over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring now and then, until it softens but does not brown.
2. Add the stock, pumpkin, 1/2 teaspoon or so of salt, bay leaves and parmesan rind.
3. Cover and simmer for at least 15 minutes and up to 1 hour. Just before serving, remove and discard the bay leaves and parmesan rind. Add the milk and, if desired, puree until very smooth. Taste for seasoning before serving with crusty bread.